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Full-on adventure climbing: take a small rack and some draws, two ropes to get down off the biggest sprire, and head up. Climbs are a mix of crack-protected trad climbing and bolted faces. Do them all! (Consult Greg Opland's Phoenix Rock II if you want more details)
Location
Hike up the road from the locked gate, and head uphill at an appropriate spot. Count on an hour for the approach.
Protection
Small rack and draws, 60M rope.